Austin-Healey 3000: Buy one now? | Buyer's Guide

Photography Credit: David S. Wallens

Have prices on one of England’s most iconic roadsters taken a bit of a breather? Perhaps.

And does that mean now is a good time to buy one? Perhaps as well.

Go back just a few short years, and trading prices on the Austin-Healey 3000 had crossed the six-figure threshold. And with good reason: It offers confident highway manners and looks so proper. You could argue that it has a bit more presence than most other little British cars. It’s a ’50s design with ’60s power. 

The Austin-Healey 3000 also has history, with Pat Moss and Ann Wisdom famously driving one to the overall victory at the Liège-Rome-Liège Rally in 1960. That duo was one of just 13 teams to finish the event. Nearly a hundred started. 

While the 3000 was a new model at the time, it wasn’t a new look. Donald Healey’s first sports car, the 100, made its sensational debut for 1953: swoopy bodywork by Jensen, capable power by Austin. When the supply of four-cylinder engines dried up, Austin-Healey released the inline-six-powered 100-6 in 1956.

Call the 3000 a carryover model, with the big changes limited to more displacement–a 3.0-liter engine replacing the outgoing 2.6–and the installation of front disc brakes. Updates during the run saw the addition of side windows, a fold-up top and power brakes. While a successor was tried–widened bodywork covering Rolls-Royce power–the Big Healey, sadly, came to an end in 1967.

Shopping Advice

Roger Hamel
President, Austin-Healey Club of America

You can cruise with these cars at 65 to 75 mph. It goes with today’s traffic. You’re not holding anybody back. You’re passing people–at least I am.

Which 3000? It depends on if you want the sporty one or the luxurious one.  From 1964 to ’67, you have roll-up windows, the 150-horsepower engine, and it’s more comfortable, with more space in the car–it’s an easier car to drive and travel. With the early 3000s, it’s the same kind of driving, but it’s less space. Every time it rains, you have to take the rack out, install it, put the convertible roof on it and screw in the windows.

In 50 years, I’ve traveled many thousands of miles with an Austin-Healey, and they’re dependable.

Look at the space between the door and the panels and see if the gaps are even, from top to bottom. If they aren’t, the frame is warping and you have major structural restoration to do.

The engines? They all leak oil, so you have to get used to that.

The first gear usually wears out. If you hear a loud sound in first gear, you’ll need to repair that.

I’ve never seen problems with the rear end.

Ten to 15 years ago, aftermarket parts were not that good. You used to try to get good, quality parts from England, but now places such as Moss Motors supply good parts.

It’s easy to find parts for an Austin-Healey. Getting it repaired might be something else. You need a mechanic who has experience with old English cars.

Whatever money you put into an Austin-Healey to restore it, it usually stays there. If you buy a $30,000 bucket and put $50,000 into it, it’ll be worth about $70,000 to $80,000. It’s something you don’t make money with, but you don’t lose.

Values have gone down the last two years, but now I see prices are back up again. There’s a series on Netflix, “The Gentlemen,” and a character drives an Austin-Healey 3000. I feel that’s getting younger people interested in them.

Join the Austin-Healey Club of America. You’ll learn about the cars and talk with other members. They’ll help you with buying a car and help you after you buy it.

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Comments
Billwalt
Billwalt New Reader
6/26/24 11:38 a.m.

Very good article. Austin-Healey is a fun car, and as the article suggest the real plus is that there is a very good support group with over 40 chapters of the Austin-Healey Club of America (healeyclub.org) spread around the US and Canada. The club website has a Healey Marketplace that currently has what is most likly the largest selection on any site of Healeys for sale (30). The selection currently ranges from a '59 100-6  BN6 2-seater (a stalled project) for only $3,500 to a rare 1967 Golden Beige BJ8 for $100,000. The offerings change almost weekly as cars are added and sold. 

67mkiii
67mkiii New Reader
6/27/24 2:43 p.m.

Roger, you are definitely well versed in knowledge of the Healeys.  But I do not believe the MkII had a larger engine than the MkIII.  I was under the impression the allure to the MkII was the smaller subset of the production run?  Regardless, I do appreciate your passion for the cars.  Very special car indeed, and the clubs/comraderie truly set it a cut above the rest.  I am greatful to be finishing the restoration on my late father's that we have had since new.  Looking forward to making memories in it with my children.

J.A. Ackley
J.A. Ackley Senior Editor
6/28/24 11:53 a.m.

In reply to 67mkiii :

Indeed, I believe you're correct in that the Mark II did not have a larger engine than the III. I'll confirm.

J.A. Ackley
J.A. Ackley Senior Editor
7/2/24 11:05 a.m.
67mkiii said:

Roger, you are definitely well versed in knowledge of the Healeys.  But I do not believe the MkII had a larger engine than the MkIII.  I was under the impression the allure to the MkII was the smaller subset of the production run?  Regardless, I do appreciate your passion for the cars.  Very special car indeed, and the clubs/comraderie truly set it a cut above the rest.  I am greatful to be finishing the restoration on my late father's that we have had since new.  Looking forward to making memories in it with my children.

I spoke with Roger, and here's his response:
"The difference between the Mk III and Mk II is the carburation. There were 3 small SU carburetors in the Mk II compared with two larger ones in the Mk III and also a hotter cam I believe. Good luck with your restoration. Patience is of essence !"

gsarahs
gsarahs New Reader
11/8/24 8:53 p.m.

I am the current custodian of a black over red Early Phase 2 BJ8 and a blue over white Late Phase 2 BJ8. The former went through a full restoration, while the latter had an older restoration years ago, followed over time by a new interior and top, and then bare metal repaint once in my hands. Both look like new and drive beautifully.

My strong advice is to purchase with knowledge, preferably with the help of someone knowledgeable on Healeys. A cheap Healey is most likely going to be a more expensive Healey than one that is bought already done "properly", and I emphasize the "properly". Restoration is expensive due to the rather complex structure, and then you can easily run into supposed experts who will think nothing of ripping you off if they realize or think that you don't know anything. My first pair of expert crooks sure were wrong and felt the financial results after I took them to court and won big time. The second company was excellent, who then repaired the half-assed work already done and then did a fantastic job. I won't ever get the months of stress and legal preparation back though, so better to protect yourself with knowledge from those in the Healey club community.

My main complaint is that it is almost impossible for me to get into my Healeys if their tops are up, without bonking my head (I am only 5 foot 8 inches tall). Top down motoring is excellent however, so that is how I normally drive them!

My understanding of the SU tri-carb version is that they are complicated to tune and are expensive to rebuild, with little benefit. There is a reason why the manufacturer went to larger SUs with the subsequent BJ7s and BJ8s.

wspohn
wspohn UltraDork
11/9/24 12:23 p.m.

The big Healeys have striking styling but also some indifferent build issues.

Jensen did the bodies and their method of welding the upper sheet metal to the floors means that when you get serious rust the job of body repair is much more complicated (and expensive) than for the normally constructed body-on-frame cars.

Like the Triumphs, they also used a quite dated suspension set up - in order to save a bit of money, they used a flat frame rather than one that kicked up over the rear axle, and that limits travel and makes handling in race situations a bit more of a challenge. I should mention that they did (finally in 1965-68) altered the chassis to go over the axle.

The engine is a long stroke lazy revving (i.e. heavy flywheel) straight 6 but it has some grunt, and even the older 100-4 with an even older large displacement 4 cylinder would honk along pretty well (and they were my favourite in terms of styling, too).

Just a note on tricarb - when they made the MGC using an updated engine based on the big Austin, they ended up with a  rather unexciting performance level.  I owned one and I rebuilt it, cut the agricultural flywheel down by almost half, and added a bit of cam and a tricarb manifold that I fabricated, using triple 1 3/4" SUs., a header we built and balanced the engine.  Result was that the top speed went from something like 115 mph to 130 mph (GPS measured)

 

dougie
dougie HalfDork
11/9/24 4:53 p.m.

All valid input on the big Healey, except the rear axle was never altered to go over the rear chassis. Radias arms were added to the 64-67 model years. When prepared correctly the challenge of driving them in competition can put a huge smile on your face.

 

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