Sure look clean.
Valve guides might be good too, in as much as a picture can tell you. lol
Sure look clean.
Valve guides might be good too, in as much as a picture can tell you. lol
In reply to a_florida_man :
To do a good job of removing the carbon from the ring grooves use white Vinegar.
Grocery store vinegar is only 10% good stuff while hardware store ( Home Depot/Lowes/Menards) can be as high as 30%. Do use the 30%. The other stuff will take more than a week to work. While overnight with the good stuff will loosen the rings and 2-3 days will have them completely clean.
I have tried everything else. ATF and acetone would eventually work but not as quick or clean as White vinegar
Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) said:Pulled a couple of valves last night, but I learned to hate and fear the valve spring compressor. I have another one ordered. I'll definitely replace the valve seals.
Once the heads are stripped, I can check them for cracks. I've got some of the chemical spray on crack detector material. Then, I'm going to tear down both short blocks and assess the situation. I'll get one running engine out of this yet.
Missed this last night. Glad you're plugging away.
I located the origin of the valve seal spring that was on the oil drain plug magnet. Cylinder 2, exhaust. I haven't pulled apart the other head yet, but I can see the springs are present.
I'm replacing all of the seals.
It appears that the intake runners had the valves unshrouded a bit, but the bowls are untouched.
I don't know how much metal is there normally.
There's also indication of a bit of grinding around the edges of the intake ports. I don't have a gasket set yet, so I don't know if that is enough to call it gasket matched, but it doesn't look like it.
A little bit of portwoork that may make marginal gains is better than too much that kills flow.
And i have an engine here with Similar cylinder rust that i paid way more for. So i feel your pain.
I'm concentrating on the heads right now. If I don't have two good heads, it doesn't matter what the short blocks are like.
The one short block has the rusty bores but rotates easily, the other one has cross hatching still visible except for a half dollar size spot that's smoothed by the broken ring, but is still hard to rotate, even with crankshaft, cam, flex plate, balancer and timing chain the the only remaining moving parts.
After I confirm the heads are good, I'm going to get a balancer puller and tear down both short blocks. I'm going to measure the bores in the original engine, see if they're out of round.
if I'm lucky, maybe I can salvage the original engine, leave the junkyard purchase out of the challenge budget, and sell that four bolt main engine to Stampie for the 383 build for his corvette.
No cracks.
Valve heads are buffed with a dremel and valves are lapped.
The deck surfaces on the heads aren't perfect, but they're flat.
Almost ready to start on the short block.
In reply to Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) :
Cool! Next thing you know you'll be running 10s at the Challenge.
Stampie said:In reply to Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) :
Cool! Next thing you know you'll be running 10s at the Challenge.
Lots left to do, and lots of potential problems, but I'm plugging away at it.
The Ralliart and the civic (Vtec-slow) have required some of my time recently too.
Tomorrow I want to clean the heads again (valve lapping abrasive) and reassemble them. I'd like to start on the short block, but I also have to work on my refrigerator and finish rear shocks on the civic. Plus laundry and cooking.
In reply to Floating Doc (Forum Supporter) :
Laundry and cooking can wait. Everyone can deal with dirty cloths and lose some weight.
Did you ever pull the timing chain?
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