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JBasham
JBasham HalfDork
3/27/19 12:28 p.m.
Rushcanuck said:

Had that same issue with that canton windage tray. Ended up trimming a bit less and hammering a indent to clear the pickup. Im only building a 331 so I may not have had to pull the screen up nearly as high. Only 2 washers in the rear and 1 washer on the front.

What are the specs on the heads that crate motor came with?

Sounds about right.  Once I drilled the windage tray mount holes so they would slide down the step-bolts to the top of the cap nuts, I think I only used two washers on top of the cap nuts.

Heads:

60cc chamber
2.02" intake/1.60" exhaust valves
190cc intake/65cc exhaust runners

 Intake CFM Port Flow Average @ 28" 

.100" - 73
.200" - 120
.300" - 168
.400" - 203
.500" - 238
.600" - 240

Exhaust CFM Port Flow Average @ 28" 
.100" - 58
.200" - 104
.300" - 128
.400" - 146
.500" - 159
.600" - 166

Spring Pressure Open: 295-305 @ 1.225
Spring Pressure Closed: 115-125 @ 1.800

Maximum Valve Lift (in): .575 in.
Intake Valve Angle: 20 Degrees
Exhaust Valve Angle: 20 Degrees

5-angle valve job, chrome nickle seats

Pedestal mount rockers (boo).

Rushcanuck
Rushcanuck Reader
3/27/19 7:56 p.m.

They give you any numbers that the motor should make?

Floating Doc
Floating Doc Dork
3/27/19 9:22 p.m.
JBasham said:
Floating Doc said:
JBasham said:

We filled the oil pan with used engine oil, and tilted it all over the place to make sure we had enough flow-back to keep the pickup covered.  

It looked good, so I re-installed the pan with a FelPro SFLOS34508R and oil-proof high temp RTV.

So, before I go any further, here's a quiz:

What key step did I skip?

 

I believe you're referring to checking the pick up clearance.

Good guess, but in my case, I forgot to figure out how the dipstick was going to make it to the oil in the pan through all that windage tray and baffle.

Uhhh, sounds like something I would do.

Floating Doc
Floating Doc Dork
3/27/19 9:28 p.m.
JBasham said:
Rushcanuck said:

Had that same issue with that canton windage tray. Ended up trimming a bit less and hammering a indent to clear the pickup. Im only building a 331 so I may not have had to pull the screen up nearly as high. Only 2 washers in the rear and 1 washer on the front.

What are the specs on the heads that crate motor came with?

Sounds about right.  Once I drilled the windage tray mount holes so they would slide down the step-bolts to the top of the cap nuts, I think I only used two washers on top of the cap nuts.

Heads:

60cc chamber
2.02" intake/1.60" exhaust valves
190cc intake/65cc exhaust runners

 Intake CFM Port Flow Average @ 28" 

.100" - 73
.200" - 120
.300" - 168
.400" - 203
.500" - 238
.600" - 240

Exhaust CFM Port Flow Average @ 28" 
.100" - 58
.200" - 104
.300" - 128
.400" - 146
.500" - 159
.600" - 166

Spring Pressure Open: 295-305 @ 1.225
Spring Pressure Closed: 115-125 @ 1.800

Maximum Valve Lift (in): .575 in.
Intake Valve Angle: 20 Degrees
Exhaust Valve Angle: 20 Degrees

5-angle valve job, chrome nickle seats

Pedestal mount rockers (boo).

Decent flow, especially compared to any stock head. Not bragging rights flow compared to some of the other aftermarket heads, but I think that the flat torque curve will do the bragging for you after they're in the car. 

JBasham
JBasham HalfDork
3/28/19 2:54 p.m.

Floating Doc, thanks.  I think the dyno sheet kinda establishes that whatever they are, they're 'bout good enough for the job at hand.  Sometimes I try not to overthink the bench racing, and just get the car buttoned up and out on the track so I can run it.

Rushcanuck - they dynoed the motor before they sent it to me and it did 'bout 400/400.  Dyno chart is linked near the top of the first page.

Got more to tell about your 331?  I really like the idea of that motor for a road racecourse car better than a 347.  I'm not convinced the 347 will be durable for heavy high-RPM use.  If it all goes to hell, my next draft will be with a 331.

Blueprint's 331 is weird.  It barely turns more TQ/HP than their stock 302/306.  I'm guessing they must be doing it wrong.

 

JBasham
JBasham HalfDork
5/31/20 7:24 p.m.

It's finally in the chassis and I have enough of a tune on the EEC-IV box that it actually drives around at stoich.  I took it for it's first cruise today and pulled off the parkway in the middle to see what I was smelling.

youtube video

I have been off the internet grid for quite a stretch because of other commitments, but I noticed I got one Youtube email when I went to post this today, and I can't answer it because they pulled the function.  Anyway, johnkilo asked me what I thought about buying the Blueprint longblock, from the standpoint of a man who needs a new shortblock for a used TrickFlow top end.  I have a used TrickFlow top end and made the same choice.  The heads are probably better but I had time shortages already.  I didn't want to have to install them on a short block twice; I wanted to get the car done.  And look how long that took.

Also, I'm not sure why BluePrint says the longblock isn't suitable for EFI.  

I guess maybe it could be a handful on the street because the cam is chunky, but I don't understand why a carb would ameliorate that problem.

It is stupid loud.  I have the exhaust I welded up for the previous motor, which has an x-pipe Borla muffler where the stock cats go, and then straight dual 2.5" out to the bumper.  In the driver's seat it idles at almost 110 db, and that's what it measures standing behind it.  That drops a little off idle but it's still over 100db.  Track only, unless I redesign the exhaust to put another Borla in front of the turn-downs.

The motor absolutely just rips, but I won't know more until I get some test time at the track.

 

JBasham
JBasham HalfDork
10/25/20 2:01 p.m.

Well, don't copy my oil pan baffle.

It works very well in the corners.  The pressure barely dips.

In the brake zone, however, not so much.

It's fine on 300TW tires with street pads, where my stops were pulling down from about 100 mph using the whole brake zone.

First time I went out with 160TW and track pads, and started pulling it down from over 100 mph, the oil pressure was dumping to like 10 psi.

So, I just ordered a new pan from Blueprint's supplier, and I will try a new baffle design.

It is hard to get the oil pan off -- I have to hang the engine and pull the subframe off from below to get it out.

But I would rather have a baffle solution instead of an Accu Sump, so I'm going to spend some time this winter giving it one more try.

My ECU tune is a little rough, but it seems to be coming along fine.  And this motor is stupid powerful.  Compared to my stock Ford 5.0 H.O. with an Explorer intake and Trick Flow stage 1 cam, this new motor is just night and day.

jharry3
jharry3 HalfDork
10/25/20 3:49 p.m.
JBasham said:

We filled the oil pan with used engine oil, and tilted it all over the place to make sure we had enough flow-back to keep the pickup covered.  

It looked good, so I re-installed the pan with a FelPro SFLOS34508R and oil-proof high temp RTV.

So, before I go any further, here's a quiz:

What key step did I skip?

 

You beat me to it but I remember that issue with a 289 I built in the mid 70's.  I bought a Boss 302  oil pickup, windage tray and Boss 302 deep oil pan with the main bearing bolts to mount the windage tray    I  had a catalog with all the Ford part numbers back then.  It all worked out.

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