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DeadSkunk  (Warren)
DeadSkunk (Warren) UltimaDork
10/18/21 2:14 p.m.

More sheet metal work to close out the rear bulkhead. I like the bead roller but keeping the beads straight while turning the crank with one hand is almost impossible .

SkinnyG (Forum Supporter)
SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) UberDork
10/18/21 4:53 p.m.

Change the crank to an old steering wheel, and try to arrange the bead roller shafts that pulling the wheel top toward you feeds the material in. At least, that works best for me.

Fab some kind of "fence" to keep the beads parallel with the panel.

You need a lackey.

DeadSkunk  (Warren)
DeadSkunk (Warren) UltimaDork
10/20/21 11:51 a.m.

And on goes the body again.....likely it will be there until spring.......

DeadSkunk  (Warren)
DeadSkunk (Warren) UltimaDork
10/20/21 12:38 p.m.

......and it's on the chassis...

DeadSkunk  (Warren)
DeadSkunk (Warren) UltimaDork
10/20/21 12:55 p.m.

I wish I could make these flares work.......so close. I'll have to do some pondering on the best way to make it work.

Dusterbd13-michael
Dusterbd13-michael MegaDork
10/20/21 12:56 p.m.

Yes!!!

NOHOME
NOHOME MegaDork
10/20/21 1:24 p.m.
DeadSkunk (Warren) said:

I wish I could make these flares work.......so close. I'll have to do some pondering on the best way to make it work.

Rather than bring the flare to the car, can you bring the body to the flare by making some kind of filler piece? Thinking box-flare cause people dig that look.

DeadSkunk  (Warren)
DeadSkunk (Warren) UltimaDork
10/20/21 3:01 p.m.

In reply to NOHOME :

I've been looking at both ways. Doing it in metal would likely be more budget friendly, just requiring me to find another free filing cabinets. Glassing them on might look better if I take my time, but material cost will be in the budget. I'd prefer a fiberglass bubble flare. We'll see...

I need to bolt on the front fenders and see if the 914 flares are even close at that end.

Dusterbd13-michael
Dusterbd13-michael MegaDork
10/20/21 3:37 p.m.

If you decide to pass them on, let me know. Ill take them!

 

(Yep. Im a vulture)

DeadSkunk  (Warren)
DeadSkunk (Warren) UltimaDork
10/27/21 11:37 a.m.

I threw all the body parts back on the car in an effort to clear the second bay of the garage. I'll need the space to park the Miata for the winter. Work on the Challenge car will slow to a crawl soon.....

Scoooter
Scoooter
2/6/22 9:07 p.m.

Hi, found this site while looking for Corvette oilpans, and had to read your entire thread.  Stunning work what with the budget constraints.  And, I have a few comments.

On the fuel pump, early electronic fuel injected cars did have a problem where if the pump lost its prime, it took a dealer to reprime it. Running out of gas could be a 500 dollar bill.  As long as the pump can self-prime, putting it down low won't matter.  I don't think anyone makes a fuel pump anymore that isn't self-priming.  The other thing, the syphon effect will mean that the fuel pump drawing up then down won't matter.  So long as the pickup and the pump are at about the same level or pump a little lower, the weight of the fuel going up will be the same as the weight of the fuel going down.  Once the overhead loop is full it will act exactly like the fuel line is coming out of the bottom of the tank so there's no need to cut up the fuel cell.

On the exhaust, have you thought about glasspacks?  If there's room in the driveshaft tunnel, a pair of 30 inch glasspacks will give you a nice, deep tone and they're only about 2 inches larger around than the exhaust pipe itself.  The longer they are, the quieter they will be, and the long ones don't crackle too much.  And, while on exhaust - LS engines really need an exhaust crossover.  It'll make it quieter and can be worth 10-15HP across the RPM band.  You don't need anything fancy for the crossover either, just a little excess pipe and your welder with a little cutting.  I've seen people use a hole saw on a drill press with the pipe securely attached to make the actual crossover pipe's half-moon cut.  2 glasspacks as duals is quieter than one larger single too.

And, for power steering, between hydraulic power steering and electric racks, the car companies used an electric power steering module called EPAS (Electric Power Assisted Steering) that attaches to the firewall and provides assist on the actual steering shaft.  You can use this with your existing manual steering rack/box.  Some are more complicated than others, but the simpler ones just need power, ground and a "volume" knob to control how much assist it gives.  A search on "epas conversion" or similar will give links showing how to do it and what make/model to look for.  This is popular on home EV conversions.

This will be my one and only post, as I used a throwaway email account to join, but I couldn't help but be impressed and wanted to offer a bit of assistance.  Good luck with it.

DeadSkunk  (Warren)
DeadSkunk (Warren) UltimaDork
2/7/22 9:01 p.m.

In reply to Scoooter :

Just a couple of points of clarification.....

There is an exhaust crossover in the exhaust already and I've got a pair of Flowmasters for mufflers. If I come across a pair of glasspacks for less than I paid for the Flowmasters I would change.

I'll have a look at the electric assisted steering to see if it can be done for less than the current budget hit.

Edit: The local pick-n-pull charges $31.50 for a column without the steering wheel. That may work.

QuasiMofo (John Brown)
QuasiMofo (John Brown) MegaDork
5/20/22 7:34 a.m.

Warren, at some point I know that you will read this and will know that you are actively thought about on a daily basis. 

Keep fighting brother.

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