Tim Suddard
Tim Suddard Publisher
9/1/20 10:01 a.m.

Replacing a damaged door skin: It can sound so daunting at first, like some epic struggle rife with jagged metal and flying sparks. But this job is considered simple in the world of bodywork. 

Why not just replace the entire door? Sometimes beneath that rusty, damaged or poorly repaired outer…

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klharper New Reader
9/2/20 8:43 a.m.

This is great if you have a door skin available, but can you show us how to make a door skin

4/5/21 9:50 p.m.

I have a question at the end...but first, I just wanted to say "Thank You So Much!" for posting this article.

I do not have welding equipment and have been trying to figure out how I might economically replace my door skins myself and this article reinforces with what I found here about glue being an option: https://www.minimania.com/How_to__Mk1_Aluminum_Door_Skins

They, however, limit the "glue only" tactic to aluminum skins, saying:

"With aluminum, you can use epoxy glue made specifically for bonding panels.  With folded over seams and the panel adhesive, no welding is needed.  So in a sense, replacing your steel panels with aluminum is easier for us journeymen than the OEM steel!  The newly repaired frame also lends itself to a replacement steel skin, by the way.  Not much difference in how the aluminum vs. steel skin goes back on, other than a couple of welded spots on the steel version, rather than adhesive used on aluminum.  The folded edges do most of the work."

So my question is: with what looked like a steel skin in your article, how did you deal with the two seam welded spots at the two top edges of the Mini door?

What did you do in those two spots to keep the steel skin flush with the frame?

Thank you in advance for considering my inquiry!

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