I recieved my part from the machinist...

I needed an adaptor made for my fuel cap. With the forums help, I made a pretty drawing:

Friend of a friend works as a machinist, and did this on his machines at his house, so it took a bit longer... a bit less than a week, so no worries.

I had added a 27 deg. chamfer to the bottom edge, after I printed it, and he did get that the correct width, just from horizontal, not vertical, as drawn. Turns out I like it this way better. But that, one counter bore is deeper than the other three (again, doesn't adversely affect anything) and the chamfer to break the edges of each hole, and both sides, is inconsistent, and heaver than needed. Was not requested, but will never be seen. So, all the holes are in the correct spots, and it is completely functional, but mediocre work. Fine in this application.

But I have a question: How much should he have charged me for this? Whenever I've done any simple parts for folks, I was either using work machines, or helping a close friend from my own stash on mine, for owesy's. I've never done any side work for pay, so I don't have a clue. Any thoughts for the hive?

I tapped the 4 holes I needed to, transferred and drilled the cap ring, made a gasket, and assembled. (test fit on tank was good)

"painted" the adaptor black (sharpie for now!) and attempted to make the Teflon gasket black...

Any suggestions for dyeing the teflon gasket black, so it does not stand out like a sore thunb?

I will be replacing the screws with some button head allen screws, either in 10-32, or 5mm - 08 (I had the Phillips screws in 10 - 32, but the tap hole is a hair large, and can be tapped on out to the 5-08 thread easy.

The first attempt of the home made gasket is shown just for material comparison... the second one came out much better than the "practice" piece. The black rubber I had on hand was too soft and too thick. This is perfect; just need to make it black, now.

Glad it worked out for you, at least well enough.

My father used to simmer yellow nylon RC plane propellers in black RIT dye from the grocery store. That worked surprisingly well. No idea if it will work on Teflon.

If he did it at home, its most likely manual.  Inconsistant chamfers wouldn't bother me because its manual, and doesnt effect the application whatsoever. drill depths being off is annoying, but could be corrected with a well placed drill. If I was paying for it, I would imagine 100-125 would be pretty realistic. 

As far as pricing goes, a regular machine shop would charge around $200 to do 1 pc. I would probably have done it as a favor to a friend of a friend. As far as your situation is concerned I think somewhere between a 6 pack and $75 if you supplied the material if not another $15 for the material.

On something like this, there's a huge difference between "fair compensation" and "token of appreciation". IMO, Six pack, bottle, etc, fall under token. Gift card to Amazon or restaurant etc fall under compensation and should be scaled accordingly.

since this guy is friend of a friend, I recommend asking your friend since he knows the machinist better than you do.

Beer, soda, or a nice bottle of booze. A lot of favors with refusal of money have been played in libations. 

Assuming that he started with round stock the operations would be something like,

• Cut stock
• Hold on OD in lathe, face, bore and add chamfer
• Flip, hold on ID in lathe, face and cut OD
• Clamp in mill, locate center, calculate bolt pattern from bolt circle or Clamp in rotary table
• Drill #20 holes
• Bore counterbores
• Deburr
• Clean

Depending on the equipment that's easily 2 hours and could be as much as 4.  I'd be charging $200.00 plus materials before any friend of a friend discount.   

There are no tolerances or edge callouts on the drawing so you really can't complain about the counterbore depths and the changers on the holes.  The big chamfer being wrong is an issue if the print was unambiguous.

You need nitrile black rubber for gas or oil and I'm not saying Teflon is bad, it's not.

McMaster carr sells 12"x12" pieces of rubber.  
 

Thanks, all, for the input on pricing, and getting the teflon black.

For the record, no complaints on the quality level... just pointing it out for the pricing thoughts! As said, none of it will ever be seen, and it fits, so all is good!

He did charge $100 for it; was a lot more than I had expected, but I paid it quite willingly. If I had my machines set up, I could do it myself,  but I don't. So no worries a'tall.

I knew upfront he does side jobs for pay, so I wasn't expecting a token of appreciation. Turns into a very expensive fuel cap, but stock is made of unobtainuim, and the aftermarket ones that fit, cost almost as much, but are made to look good on a cafe build... not what this needed!

I am very happy with the way this turned out. Gives an option of a mounting point for a hinged tank bag mount (since magnet bags don't work on Aluminum tanks!) A bit of a hit on as tight of a budget as I am, but it gets the bike going again.

Thanks again, to all the answers and opinions. Much appreciated.

The screws will be button allen's, and do line up with the center line of the bike. the cam when closed is crossways, with "open" readable sitting on the bike. Little details!

Now I just need a decal to cover the bad paint spots, and a black gasket. In retrospect, I prolly should have put an o-ring groove in. Maybe the next time it will be down for a bit Ill spring for that!