Thinking about starting the informational journey on K-swaps. Looking for a book or website where I can brush up (that is to say; start from scratch) on K-stuff. In particular, trans adaptability, performance parts and modifications, picking the right one to start with.
And yes, this does have challenge potential, so I'm not looking for a book that says "[insert business] can port the head," I'm looking for more "here's how to port the head with a die grinder in your basement."
MotoIQ has done a couple of K engine projects.
In this one they put a K20 head on a K24 and got 300hp naturally aspirated.
Good resource, although I didn't make it past page one without blowing the budget 
But I won't be going dry sump and forged pistons. I'll probably risk 250 hp on a stock TSX bottom end.
250hp won't be a problem with a stock bottom end. You didn't say what the car would be used for, but assuming it's staying NA, that means higher compression/rpm/volumetric efficiency. It also means it'll likely get louder, both due to the necessary lower restriction exhaust, and the higher rpm, if that matters.
Since this is GRM, I'm assuming that you'll be cornering hard left and right. There is an issue where in a hard turn (can't remember which way) the oil hits the timing chain, which acts like an elevator, lifting it up out of the pan and dumping it into the head, drawing down the overall level.
K20A.org is a great reference for the engine, but not for how to port a K20 head; that sort of thing tends to be either highly proprietary, or is so general in nature that it's not specific to any particular engine.
About the transmission, you'll "probably" be fine with 250 hp, as long as you aren't drag racing. The transaxles are a known weak link once the engine is turbocharged.
This series may be up your alley: http://vtec.academy/budget-k-swap/ They run through all of the Junkyard parts to gather for an EG swap. Not sure what you are planning to put it in.
I'm probably your best resource for ghetto K stuff so ask away.
600hp is where there is significant "Risk" involved in a junkyard TSX engine
For junkyard builds you port the head by not porting the head you're far more likely to make it worse than better, if you're obsessed you can match the valve seat to the runner it accomplishes nothing but if ya feel better...
Junkyard 250 NA is maybe doable if your junkyard has a CTR you can nab the cams from, 250hp with a T04E is going to cost you about $400 buying everything new and the powerband is exactly the same if not better.
Stay NA toss a k24a2 with a 50 degree RBC timing gear at whatever you have and call it done. If it's challenge budget you will need to find something that may require some shade tree bottom end refresh. See below.
Or you can get a k20z3 or k20a2 head, plop it on a cheap k24a4/a8 block, 50 degree timing gear, swap out some cheap ~$200 Nippon pistons to add compression and be done with it. The key word for future research is a frankenstein build. The k20 heads flow better than the k24 so they are often set atop the k24. If you need to rev it to the moon a k20a2 oil pump would be highly suggested but I've read a lot of folks have managed to run some other stock pumps way higher than they should without immediate consequences. K24a2 cams are the best OEM available if you can't afford an aftermarket set. I have a pair I'd donate to the cause.
There is also what they call a VTEC killer setup but that's best suited for drag only applications. It requires some trickery with mix/matching valvetrain stuff from various cheap Honda k20/24 heads but can get you some decent power on top end. This can be done on a budget I think best suited with the k24a4 I think?
The one thing I'm not too savvy about is the transmissions but I know there are plenty out there that manage to take some massive power.
With all of that said, what is your intended use?
FWD or RWD application?
Type S Oil pump is a must regardless of application.
K24a2 (RBB) is going to be the best baseline IMO. Throwing on a K20 head is going to come with its own litany of extra steps but there are plenty of write ups out there. https://ff-squad.com/wp/?p=629
For 250hp, you'll likely need high compression pistons, cam gears, and the appropriate intake/header/exhuast/tuning combo.
RWD build, just north of 2000 lbs. 83 Corolla Wagon (if it ends up being as non-rusty as my buddy says). This would be a primarily challenge build, but remain street legal as a spare grocery getter for days like today... when my DD is getting an inspection and the shop is behind schedule.
This is super early. Haven't seen the car, but he's offering it to me for $200. I'm just researching lightweight swaps that can make power... at least more power than the 70-horse 3A that's in it now. Horsepower goals are going to likely be set by budget, but 300 hp seems to be pretty easy with a K24/K20 head. My plan is to get some target budget together to make it turn and stop, then spend the rest on going forward as fast as possible. My comfort zone is muscle cars and engines measured in cubic inches, so 4-cylinder performance is a complete mystery to me. Looking to change that.
In reply to Byrneon27 :
I look forward to dissecting your brain. Gotta make sure the car is worthy of my $200 first.
captainawesome said:The one thing I'm not too savvy about is the transmissions but I know there are plenty out there that manage to take some massive power.
I'll also need to investigate how much the rear will handle. An 8.8" swap might be in the cards.
In reply to Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) :
Your budget may be too tight to get a solid 300hp in RWD configuration. At minimum you will need compression, e85, a RWD intake setup, a set of cams, valve springs, a good flowing head, and a damn good header with 3" exhaust. The flywheel adapter, trans, clutch, etc. will be pricey too unless there are options I'm not aware of that have brought the cost down.
I think if you found a TSX donor car, stripped for the engine and any parts that may transfer over like harness and ECU, then find a trans and adapter combo that isn't going to break the bank you might be able to still get a good 230hp to the rear wheel. If you have the budget left, a k20a2 oil pump, k20z3 or k20a2 head, and so on. The problem is all of these parts add up fast and before you know it, you are no longer challenge worthy if it's all piece meal and not at rock bottom prices. A k24a2 with the 50 degree timing gear and oil pump in my 2750 lb. with 1/4 tank FRS can shred pretty hard. In a lighter chassis it would be even better. I think your best bet is to just build everything light and let that be where you place most of the performance goals. Also you will need to figure out ECU options that can still support power goals and tuning .
Curtis73 (Forum Supporter) said:RWD build, just north of 2000 lbs. 83 Corolla Wagon (if it ends up being as non-rusty as my buddy says). This would be a primarily challenge build, but remain street legal as a spare grocery getter for days like today... when my DD is getting an inspection and the shop is behind schedule.
This is super early. Haven't seen the car, but he's offering it to me for $200. I'm just researching lightweight swaps that can make power... at least more power than the 70-horse 3A that's in it now. Horsepower goals are going to likely be set by budget, but 300 hp seems to be pretty easy with a K24/K20 head. My plan is to get some target budget together to make it turn and stop, then spend the rest on going forward as fast as possible. My comfort zone is muscle cars and engines measured in cubic inches, so 4-cylinder performance is a complete mystery to me. Looking to change that.
These dudes have a ton of your RWD K needs. I've been eyeballing a lot of their stuff for a K-swap in my S2000 (the blasphemy!) https://kpower.industries/
For 300hp skip the TSX engine. You don't need VTECs and you don't need RPM. CRV engine will do ya just fine. No real difference in our case here between an A1, A3, A4, and A8(CRV vs Accord vs Element) if you can get a cheapie TSX engine go for it but far from a requirement
Common K myths...
You need a Type S/R oil pump... You do not, if you WANT one every K20 oil pump is a Type S/R pump. Deleting the balance shafts while ideal is far from an absolute. Don't buy "modified" K20 pumps the internal improvements are obvious if you take one apart, the external work can be done with a grinder so tanked up you can't even see
K20/24 Hybrid. More trouble than they're worth namely if you're starting from a 06-08 TSX . Back in the day the port profile was "better" and the intake manifold options actually existed. The TSX intake flange is the same as that of the K20Z so performance oriented/cable throttle intake manifolds without weird adapters now exist. If you're doing headwork the difference becomes even smaller.
Turbos R Bad... They're not
Horsepower is bad... It's not
Transmissions are weak... Nope
They don't survive on track in RWD applications... I cant think of a stock engine that can be held on a pop and bang 2 step for forty seconds at a time while being oil starved that will live long. Keep oil from sloshing into the timing case and keep oil around the pick up... That's it. I like to make my own RWD oil pans (steel is the right answer for me) too many of the ones out there leave a lot to be desired considering their price point.
Do your swap, make sure the engine stays canted the way it would in a FWD car, make sure it's tilted a few degrees down, make sure the oil pick up stays wet and you should be fine.
Now to 300hp...
$54 iron turbo manifold.
$99 T04E copy
Intecooler if ya want.
RDX injectors at a minimum, ideally something like 1000cc
Gen I/II K-pros can be found reasonably inexpensively if you look hard, KTuner ecus are not my favorite but they do the job. You could get there with an RRFPR but it gets sketchy. 10ish psi here is 320-350hp all day every day. On boil by 3k full boost by 4k, makes power until 7. The numbers (except HP and TQ) are smaller than a spinny NA setup but the powerband is just as wide. Embrace the boost!
So you might suggest any K24 unless I find a deal on an 06-08 TSX motor, then boost it in Mandarin? Sounds like fun.
Edit: And keep the oil near the pickup.
For challenge purposes any K plus boost is sweet.
k20a3 base rsx and 02-05 Civic SI have weenie little rods that break around 400hp avoid except for oil pumps and sweet steel oil pans.
K24A1, K24A3, K24A4, K24A8 are all damn near free ways to the platform, emissions focused intake cam only vtec, lowish compression, and limited vtc angle make them forgiving to tune.
K24A is a mess. The engine designation for all JDM 2.4s some are functionally identical to a K24A1, K24A2, or K24A4. Unless they are really really cheap I avoid completely, too many bad importers, too many ways for it to be a headache.
K24A2 is the TSX engine 02-05 pretty sweet and very strong. 06-08 more compression, more valve, better intake, better cams, etc. If you want a reliable 500hp for a challenge budget this engine will do it. If you want pretty reliable 600hp this will do it. The turbo and fuel system to get to 700hp is tricky to put together for the $1000 you'll have left after buying one but done carefully a 700hp junkyard 4cyl that's not totally a grenade with the pin pulled can be put together within the challenge budget.
A basic t3/t4 hybrid and crappy manifold will get you to mid 300s on a CR-V engine at between 10-15psi.
The problem of turbo Hondas at the challenge is nobody buys injectors, the stock injectors can't do boost. Buy something in the 450-650cc range and turn base pressure down to get it to idle, 11.5:1 idle won't foul plugs too quick. Get a rising rate regulator in line to get pressure up in boost. It's not elegant but it would work.
If you can find one and AEM FIC might do the tuning trick.
Build it badass enough and you know a guy who has $200 in an AEM series 1 K ECU
As with all turbo Honda challenge cars free tuning is on me at or before the event.
Byrenon, I see you are in York, I'm near Reading. Interested in other tuning work? One track car I have is an EG with a K24A2 that used to be in my EF, now with a different exhaust so I'm looking for a retune. Had previous tune with KTuner at Innovate in Carlisle and have been happy with them, but would be happy to send work to another GRMer who knows what they are doing.
Any chance you know how to tune a Mazda MZR 2.5 too? That's in the other track car and needs a tune before this season.
For relevance in this discussion, the 07 model year K24A2 (TSX) motor, with a 50 degree VTC gear, 4-2-1 header, crappy crush bent 2.5" exhaust, homemade intake, stock intake manifold with Accord cable TB, put down 205whp while keeping the redline at stock 7100 (endurance racing). In a 2100lb car it certainly moves.
Side note: I berkeleying love this forum. Thanks for all the support, folks.
This is all relevant to my future interests. Sometime budget (and SWMBO) willing would like to K swap my 08 fit.
Innovate is probably better at finding every last HP than I am but sure I'm happy to help. No experience with MZRs but by in large an engine is an engine what software is being used on those these days?
Be careful buying RDX injectors if you go that route. Lots and lots of counterfeit junk out there. Budget wise a junkyard or marketplace used set will do the trick and if I remember correctly you can unshroud them to flow even more juice. The spray pattern isn't as good but a budget is a budget.
Lots of good info on the budget boost setup above from Byrneon27. Almost makes me want to get a chassis to budget boost for a weekend shredder. Almost.
Byrneon27 said:
The problem of turbo Hondas at the challenge is nobody buys injectors, the stock injectors can't do boost. Buy something in the 450-650cc range and turn base pressure down to get it to idle, 11.5:1 idle won't foul plugs too quick. Get a rising rate regulator in line to get pressure up in boost. It's not elegant but it would work.
If you can find one and AEM FIC might do the tuning trick.
Build it badass enough and you know a guy who has $200 in an AEM series 1 K ECU
As with all turbo Honda challenge cars free tuning is on me at or before the event.
Back in the mid-00s we were at the challenge running 12 flats on a stock internal D15 with a T3/T4 off a Volvo 970 and 450cc injectors. Don't come at me like that :) If we ever could have gotten the cheap meth injection kit to work that would have been a mid-11 second car all day.
D/H/F/B series just don't hold a candle to the flame of K-series engines tho. We get smoked by everything in Champcar these days.
https://www.rx8gearboxadapters.com/product-page/honda-k20-k24
https://kpower.industries/collections/transmission-upgrades
seems like the 2 links above will answer the rwd transmission question
This stuff got expensive...
Exhaust manifold $83.99 free shipping
Turbo $96.99 free shipping
$35 for whatever flavor of oil line kit suits you, ideally pull turbo oil off a sandwich plate (Ks with $100 turbos don't come with oil coolers, oil is not in the budget you want VR1 or similar force-field levels of film strength)
$165 for an intercooler set, if you end up budgeting this at $165 you did it wrong. 34 parts in a lot at $165, every piece you use is $4.85, overpaying for clamps lets you run a very cheap IC
$127.49 for injectors. Not a recommendation haven't personally tested these but most uh counterfeit injectors are surprisingly close to okay.
$117 for a fuel pump... This is one where the real deal is worth it
$38 for a base pressure regulator and some hose.
Ideally you'd find a BEGI or Cartech variable FMU (some of these had base pressure regulators included) to step fuel pressure up with boost, more ideally you'd find an FIC-6 or something that you could pull some timing with in additon to tuning for the bigger injectors.
The $100 K wiring harnesses on EBay are usually fine as well.
Another option is a Toyota Beams engine swap. 200 ish hp with a 6 speed manual. You can find them at JDM engine importers for less than $2k usually
Its from a JDM Lexus of some sort. Speed Academy swapped that engine and transmission package into an similar era Celica
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