I'm about to embark on an architectural/sculptural project using threaded pipe and fittings. It's all the rage with the kids these days.
I'd like to make the threaded joints permanent. Will red Loctite work on pipe threads, or do one of you smart folks have a better idea?
Thanks
Spot weld?
Red loctite will work. You could also use a thicker version for better gap fill on the pipe threads but the standard should work fine.
Just use this, $5 bucks at any hardware store. It's designed for threaded pipes that carry liquids or gases. Loctite has a version too!
Will the pipes be doing any actual work or is it purely cosmetic?
In reply to Dusterbd13:
Depends what you mean by "actual work". No, they won't be carrying liquids or gasses, but some of the projects will carry light structural loads, such as shelf brackets or towel bars. In those applications, the weak link would be the attachment to the wall, though, and not on the threaded joints (I think)..
In reply to trucke:
That won't lock it though, it is just for sealing against fluid leakage.
Actual work was in reference to gas or fluid carrying not structural. Then the structural applications that you are discussing I would use green gel Loctite and it will never come apart. The reason for the gel is it's a thicker substance so it will take up some of the Gap that is inherent in pipe threat.
If red loctite isn't permanent enough, there's JB weld...
Although I'd think that being able to disassemble it would be an advantage.
EvanR wrote: In those applications, the weak link would be the attachment to the wall, though, and not on the threaded joints (I think)..
Depends on the joint.
If you are using tapered pipe thread, the joints can get pretty weak on the thin end of the pipe. Try to avoid putting threads in bending where possible.
Your preferred flavor of loctite will work if you clean all the goopey cutting oil off the threads first.
I'd probably use JB Weld or epoxy.
Alternatively, you could assemble the entire thing and then soak all the joints with a thin cyanoacrylate AKA superglue.
Why do you need the joints permanent? Pipe properly assembled is pretty stable on its own. If we knew a little more about what you were trying to accomplish?
I have in mind stuff like this:
Commercial or residential?
Well, if I find a cost-effective way to do it, anyone who would buy it is a potential customer!
I just did a coffee table using my grandfathers work bench top and pipe as the base. It's amazing how the pipe pieces have different dimensions.
If I didn't have photo bucket I'd post you a pic.
EvanR wrote: I have in mind stuff like this:
So I was hip when I did this 5 years ago?
In reply to Stampie:
Yes, you are too hip for words!
In reply to EvanR:
Thanks that's what my momma told me also.
EvanR wrote: In reply to Dusterbd13: Depends what you mean by "actual work". No, they won't be carrying liquids or gasses, but some of the projects will carry light structural loads, such as shelf brackets or towel bars. In those applications, the weak link would be the attachment to the wall, though, and not on the threaded joints (I think)..
Just tighten it. It will be just fine as-is, no magic goops necessary.
EvanR wrote: I have in mind stuff like this:
Those threads at the wall flanges are tapered thread and in bending. Depending on what the screw hits, you could probably break the threads off long before you'd bust that flange off the wall. If they are hitting a 2x4, I'm positive you'd break the pipe threads.
There is a reason A) that's called a "floor flange" and B) people who make railings and whatnot out of pipe use thru-fittings like this: kee klamp And since we are sharing pipe-based projects... my old desk
My dad was in the fire protection sprinkler business and was making pipe stuff back in 1956. He made a blue print table frame that we casually tossed in 2013 when cleaning his house out.
In reply to ProDarwin:
There you go being all sensible and stuff!
In reply to ProDarwin:
Kinda hard to come by but SCH80 pipe would also solve that problem.
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