In reply to 03Panther :
Sorry for my dater info, it's been a while since I looked into them. But I'm still finding them for under $750.
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-differential-assembly-bc3z4026b
In reply to 03Panther :
Sorry for my dater info, it's been a while since I looked into them. But I'm still finding them for under $750.
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-differential-assembly-bc3z4026b
Looks like complete axles with 3.73 and lockers are going for under $500 in my area. Other ratios seem to be more expensive.
In reply to WillG80 :
I would have to make a guess that shipping from CO to Lower Alabam' would kinda negate that savings.
But that picture might help someone out that way.
You had my hops up, on a $600 e-locker, but alas, that seems to be older information.
Thanks for the thoughts, though.
Although I despise doing contracts out of dive hotels, looks like I may need to take the car this fall.
I imagine any form of 10.5 limited slip/locker is just going to go up in price, but maybe for the spring, I can have Big Red up an hauling.
gearheadE30 said:Thanks for all the input.
- I didn't realize the Gov Lock was a clutch type diff. All the youtube videos seem to show basically a full lock after they slam into that locked mode.
In my experience they lock up much "tighter" than a typical clutch and spring limited slip.
I think a G80 should be great for what you're doing. You'll get used to it and it'll be second nature on how much throttle input to give it and get it to lock up. I like to 2 foot them. Drag a little brake, spin it up to the lock point, then keep it on the converter to keep it locked in as I go through the obstacle.
Most of the bad rap they get is from people that dont understand them
No worries on thread jacking, any discussion of traction adders for typical truck stuff instead of hardcore wheeling or sportscar pavement duty is an opportunity for me to learn something.
Definitely not doing one of the ratcheting lockers.
I've considered a winch and I could possibly fit one behind the bumper, but I don't want to have to get the winch out every time I'm teetering between two rocks or lumps in the road or something. Or this weekend, trying to get up a little hill that was greasy on the left tire track and dry on the right. Could make it in 2wd with the right diff, took a sketchy amount of speed and 4 high for me to do it with open diffs.
I'm finding new gov locks for $400-$500 and the truetrac is a bit over $800, that's the final push. I'm getting a gov lock.
In reply to gearheadE30 :
Cool. I thought I was on topic, enough, but can also be terribly long winded! And my needs are 2wd and mostly towing, with a ford
gearheadE30 said:No worries on thread jacking, any discussion of traction adders for typical truck stuff instead of hardcore wheeling or sportscar pavement duty is an opportunity for me to learn something.
Definitely not doing one of the ratcheting lockers.
I've considered a winch and I could possibly fit one behind the bumper, but I don't want to have to get the winch out every time I'm teetering between two rocks or lumps in the road or something. Or this weekend, trying to get up a little hill that was greasy on the left tire track and dry on the right. Could make it in 2wd with the right diff, took a sketchy amount of speed and 4 high for me to do it with open diffs.
I'm finding new gov locks for $400-$500 and the truetrac is a bit over $800, that's the final push. I'm getting a gov lock.
IIRC, it was the 1/2 ton GM 10-bolt axles that had all the Gov-Bomb complaints. Usually due to stupid drivers or (in my case) a PO that treated the 1500 like a one-ton. Bent axle housings and Gov-locks are a bad combination...
OP, I went thru the same decision on my Burb, an 83 C20. Same size truck, WB, weight (almost), diff, etc, but I don't have the safety net of 4WD to pull me out of a tough spot. Factory diff was open, which was a problem given the number of times I found myself on slippery surfaces and the one-wheel burnouts it will do at will on dry pavement. I elected to build a complete 2003 rear end as a drop-in, partly to save down time, and partly to swap to disc brakes. The fab went well, and I spent time to straighten the axle to way better than factory spec to get the rear alignment as good as possible. It came with a 4.10 G80 which I could have run as-was; the diff checked out in perfect condition. I chose the TrueTrac instead though, based on my experience with Torsen-style diffs on and off road. No regrets. Sure, a Torsen-style diff is going to be clobbered by a locker if you're hanging wheels, but using a tiny bit of rear brake has worked well in the few times I had near-zero traction on one side (ice + cross-loaded). The rest of the time, it's simply flawless.
If you're making the final selection based on price, there's nothing wrong with the G80 in a 14FF/10.5". Agree that there's really not much to find for anecdotes of breaking the 10.5" versions without doing really dumb things. If this were a smaller diff, I'd be worried, but the 10.5" design has all of the moving parts and gears inside the housing and is a much tougher (and fairly clever) design. I'll make you a screaming deal on mine if you are interested. Can send detailed photos.
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